Welcome to the Schaub Lorenz Music Center blog!

The website to which this blog is linked contains information about the manufacture, marketing, functioning and repair of a German, 126-track tape recorder/radio.

This site includes:

  • interviews with inventors
  • info on patents
  • patent drawings
  • troubleshooting
  • info on repair engineers
  • English & German documentation and photographs
  • DIY workshop
  • comments
  • e-mail corrspondence (converted to ‘posts’)

Please contact me if you need a copy of the two repair manuals (mechanical; electrical), to enable you to properly understand how to repair your machine, or to enable a skilled repairer to repair it for you.

Please don’t write to me about the possible value of your music center. I can’t help you there. There are too many factors which could influence the selling price.

Site Administrator & author

For contact details see website


5 comments for “Welcome

  1. Michael
    03-11-14 at 11:45 am

    Hello i have a Schaub Lorenz Music Center 5001 and I would need some spare parts, like the the switches ke and ka, can you help me? mfg

    • 08-11-14 at 1:16 pm


      What is the problem with them?
      Are they missing (a real problem)? If only bend or misaligned it can be corrected?
      Finding the exact switches somewhere is dificult but you may be lucky. They are simple ”break type” switches. An alternative is to use modern microswitches but you will have to modify, or even make, the bracket for them.

      If required Peter can pass-on my email adres for direct contact. Duncan

  2. Guy Pepermans
    03-11-14 at 7:58 pm


    I have a Shaub Lorenz Music Center 5005, serial #38514. I was owned by my grandmother from 1965 to 1970. After her passing that year, it became mine. I used it as a teenager during the early ’70s and it must be still full of recordings that I made directly from the AM/FM reciever. In this way, it’s a time capsule indeed.

    Unfortunately, I only have power – the PE rp, nor the radio or recorder are in working order. I would be delighted to have it repaired.
    Pictures are available.

    Best regards,

    Guy Pepermans
    (address withheld)

    • 08-11-14 at 1:27 pm


      Can you be more specific on ”only power” ?
      I currently have repaired 6 different units, including a 5005, and ”I only have power’ is new to me. They are very robust so something simple is the problem.
      Are you handy in electrics/electronics?
      Whereabouts are you located? Going by your name I’d guess northern Belgium while I am situated near Tilburg. A repair visit to me maybe an option.

      As with the query from Micheal, my email adress may be forwarded by Peter for direct contact in more detail. The final problem-solver will be published on the site.


  3. Duncan
    08-11-14 at 1:40 pm

    hello Peter,

    Some weeks ago (13 oct 2014) there was an advert on Marktplaats for a 5001 mahogany table model INCLUDING a grey 5022 phono adaptor/converter.
    Was rather quickly sold, or at least it disappeared so quickly from the site that when I decided to place a bid, after thinking it over, it was gone. (16 oct.)
    A pity but never mind.

    About the same time (11 oct) a 6000 ”wrecker” was avertised.
    I was able to buy this AND get it delivered home (17 oct).

    This unit came on only the wooden base but no housing/casing sand o it was terribly dusty. The tape was in a sort of midway position.
    The story was that it had fallen and due to that the folding chassis was torn of it’s hinges, shearing all cables from the prints etc. The thin cables to the recording heads were also torn but luckily at the little support plate (which itself was cracked). In one place even a large chunk was broken out of a corner of the record/playback print. A biggish condensor is standing proud there, possibly the reason why. Also the metal frame of the folding chassis and the steel bracket for the 3-pin X-rail were heavily bend.

    A nice find was that it came with an original 5022 phono converter unit albeit without the plastic housing and switch but ‘’wired into the cicuit’’. I got the dimensions from this and added them to the document “”Actual dimensions of PCB’s”” which you have added to the end of the article on the DIY 5012 mixer. I will send the revised document in a seperate email and maybe you want to replace it on the site as it is now fully complete.

    Some of the repairs
    – Mechanical repair of frame and bracket were easy enough – a bit of bending.
    – The broken bit of printboard was repaired by placing it in the correct position and soldering the copper traces in a ‘stitching mode’. Finalising by dripping superglue in the crack. It all connects OK and is rigid enough for service.
    – Another problem was the coil in the pilot signal circuit. This was broken of it’s base and dangling by one of the two leads. These leads were the actual wires from the coil inside the ferrite core and thin as a hair at ±0,04 mm!! I was able to place the thing on it’s base and fix it with superglue. Then there was just about enough length left to solder the thin wire on it’s pin.
    – More difficult was the repair to coil L930 in the record/playback circuit. It was completely loose. Torn from it’s pertinax base while shearing all 4 of it’s thin wires but leaving the pertinax partly and the pins fully affixed to the print. Carefull study of the coil revealed that it should just about be possible to solder the 4 wires back to the correct locations.
    The process was as follows: (alas no photo’s taken, too eager to get job done)
    a) Pertinax coilbase removed from the last pin and superglued to coil centre.
    b) Unsolder and remove all 4 pins and made sure holes in print are open.
    c) Wriggle / fumble to fit pins back in the holes of the pertinax base
    d) Try and fit back on print for correct alignment one after another as you go.
    NOTE: There is a 5th pin for a one-way-fitting as used during production.
    d) Secure the 4 pins SPARINGLY with superglue
    d) Take a multistrand wire, strip for about 20mm and cut off 4 strands.
    e) Wrap two turns on a pin at underside of pertinax base (one pin each time)
    f) Solder it with a small tipped, light power iron (20-30 Watt)
    Fumes of heated superglue are toxious and very irritating to the naked eye.
    g) Very carefully scrape laquer of remaining end of coil-wire. MINIMUM !!!!
    h) Lay end of new wire along the remaining bit and with a set of pincers bend small hooks on them. Cut off spare bit of new wire. This is a very tricy operation but CAN be done.
    i) Using the small tipped iron lightly solder wires together by placing a small blob on them after heating sufficiently.
    j) Do this for all 4 coil leads in turn and then measure them for continuity. If you have done a proper job you will be able to the find 2 coils reconnected.
    k) Place a drop of paint on each blob of solder to fix it to the ferrite core.
    TIP: I regularly use nailvarnish for these jobs.
    l) Fit repaired coil on the record/playback print and solder to copper traces.

    – Another totally different problem was the 110V American style transformer. These come with aluminium covers over the windings. An additional 220/110V transformer is needed to operate the unit. It was loosely added and during the fall had managed to drop right onto the covering. A nasty dent was the result. Removal and disassembly of the 110V transformer was needed to look and see if the windings were damaged in any one way. Luckily they were not and tapping back the dent was all that was required.

    More problems followed with various loose soldering. It appeared that the hobbyist building this unit did not really put enough heat in some of the joints.

    The sheared loose wires took some tracing as not all wires were coloured / placed as per the original building instructions which I posess. Also the 5022 converter was properly fixed, rather than danging loose at the back, and wired in the ingoing signal circuit with its own wiring loom.

    The whole thing has been blown off with compressed air but there may be a lot of hidden problems due to dust ingression. That part of the tape which was on the outside of the drums was cleaned with an ethanol drenched swab prior to later winding.

    Most of the electronical work is done now and the 220/110V transformer securely fixed to a corner of the wooden base. Some small items still need to be seen to before powering up. We’ll see what it does and then wind all tape to the left drum.

    Building of a simple casing is next on the list.

    If you want this on the blog or as an indivudual item in Galloway’s workshop is up to you.

    Please feel free to pass on my email-adress to Michael and Guy to who’s queries I commented.

    Duncan Galloway

    p.s. what happened to the 12-pin plug story?

    E-mail: dunkelt1@xs4all.nl

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